Ultrabuild is rather hard if you want to sand it much past 80 grit, so treat it like an epoxy base coat as a fairing medium instead of as part of a priming system and it works well as a marker of a high not to violate.ģM Vinylester putty is something to think about, while you still have a polyester boat. Vertical is easy to feel and see and straight pulling putty vertically can let you define the flatter of the two shapes.ģM gold is fine for anything once you get to primer. Your elbows don't work well to fill or feel low spots from horizontal standing, and it takes a foot long rubber squeedgee to pull a horizontal low on a wine glass hull. Only sand in vertical overlapping passes. Take a t-shirt, put your face through the hole and tie the arms behind your head and it'll be a lot less nasty when you get through sanding at the end of the day. ![]() A full face respirator and an 8 inch pad sander makes time of gelcoat removal with the occasional wipe of the face mask to see. If you can see what you are doing and you are wearing a half mask and goggles, it's not going fast enough or your paper quit cutting. Change your paper every 2 square feet if you are using aluminum oxide grit. The 4mm orbit will be fine for top coat, but a 5/16 orbit will make removal go faster. Don't sand into the skin coat of veil mat, or you'll have a porosity nightmare. I am a fan of Mirca Abranet HD, and Norton Blue Mag abrasives for gelcoat removal, just because it lasts.ģM production green is OK, but buy a box. hand sand them for tooth and roll on another coat just in the lows first. Sand everything smooth as you can, and any low spots. If it doesn't read 22, you don't get 10 when it dries after the roller stipple is off. Spot roll known low spots, put a wet mil gauge in them. Going through the grits while you have roller stipple and orange peel still on the surface, won't take off material off fiberglass the same rate as it will primer so you get smoother but your high spots remain high while the lows turn into smooth dog dishes. Once you've got one material, it is very easy to add even layers of material to evenly build up to go through the grits. Stay coarse until you get an even scratch over the surface with a coarse grit in primer. That takes two coats of ultrabuild to get a few mils on top of the high spot and fill the low spot. 022 over a 5 inch circle, then you need to add 22 mils to the surface to get level to your nearest high spot surrounding that roller stipple. If 40 grit won't reach down and wipe off roller stipple in a low spot, 80 grit is pointless. One of those things where you almost want to get to know your high spots, prime around them, and keep on going. I keep the grit coarse in sanding as any priming you are doing is just to fill low spots. If there are still low spots that are smaller than a paint paddle where there is a crack smiling open between the hull and the stick. ![]() I take a wooden paint stir stick and hold it up to the hull with the wide face against the boat curving around it. Versatile all-round product with an attractive range of options.Coarse, until it is time not to go coarse any more.Suitable for general use in dry and wet sanding applications.Minimal clogging thanks to open coating 220 - 600 grit range.Highly flexible and adaptable to contours.Removal of orange-peel effect and dust inclusions.Flatting of body filler and primer filler.Sanding out unevenness at the edges of repaired surfaces.Risk-free re-coating is possible with both standard coating systems and the latest coating systems. Low scratch depths and high removal rates produce a perfect sanded finish. ![]() Outstanding results are achieved in dry and wet sanding applications. Flexible latex paper and waterproof abrasive components make this possible. 1948 siaflex can be easily used wet and dry.The new latex paper backing and the soft-bound abrasive structure offer outstanding flexibility and impressive tear resistance.
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